02 March 2010

Modern Chinese

Quite a few of my friends have been reminding me about the existence of this blog. Ok, yes, I've been egregious about updating even though I said I would multiple times (see here and here). So here goes my 3rd attempt. Welcome 2010 guys (61 days late)!
I just came back from a Hong Kong/Beijing trip so I thought it be most appropriate to start off with some of that. This post is dedicated to Rach as she set up this little lunch gathering below.

BO INNOVATIONS (Private lift entrance on 18 Ship Street, Wan Chai)

I have wanted to come here ever since watching it featured on a segment of "No Reservations: Hong Kong". Everything Anthony Bourdain eats I want to eat too, except for the items with animal excrement still inside...

The genius behind Bo Innovations is the "Demon Chef" (aka Alvin) and his penchant for 'updating' classic Chinese food for the modern palate. Among many options, this 2 Michelin star restaurant offers a $198 HKD lunch prix fixe ($25.50 USD) which is a superb deal for 2 small dishes, an entree, dessert and starch du jour. Set atop a second floor terrace above the busy streets of Wan Chai, we were treated to a memorable meal with a view of the Demon Chef himself at work!

Fun Fact: We were pleasantly surprised to find one of our old highschool classmates working here! What a small world. He was kind enough to send over a few extra plates to try :)


Serenity above the hustle bustle


Place-setting


Little details


Wagyu cheeks "xiao lung bao" avruga caviar


"Har gau" truffle XO


Foie gras breadpudding


Foie gras potsticker


Deep fried scallop balls, kaffir lime sauce


Black truffle "cheung fun"


24hrs. cooked pork lasagna in chinese vinegar, egg


Starch du jour


Desset du jour

One of my favorite dishes was the entree - the pork was perfectly tender and flavorful with a tangy, sweet and salty vinegar sauce; the egg yolk was so fun to eat, enclosed in a clear soft shell (gastronomy magic clearly happened here). When dining out I always find appetizers a wee more well done so I was happy to see this change. My other definite favorite was the dessert - a divine rich chocolate and banana concoction soaked in a Chinese liquor; towards the end of eating it the flavor of the chocolate melts into the liquid so that you can drink every last bit of it.

Must say, one thing I noticed for a place that puts so much emphasis on modern technique was that there was not as much molecular-gastronomy-flair as I expected. Although this might have just been the things I ordered since one friend got something that came in 'snow' form. Also, at certain points I couldn't taste the gourmet ingredients listed, such as the foie gras in the potsticker. Other than these small details, I have no complaints.

It's great to see a actually 'good' remake of classic Chinese fare - not the generic asian fusion stupidity that I cannot differentiate but actual thought out combinations that taste as good as they look. Personally, I've always thought that the simple, original recipes are usually better, but after eating here I'm open to the idea of merging forms into something, possibly, greater. Menu's change monthly, so I'm certainly planning on going back.

1 comment:

Rach said...

Yay! I got namechecked! Thoroughly agree with your review... perhaps they save more molecular gastronomy for the however many thousand dollar set dinner, having hooked us in with the good value lunch!

This was my third visit and nothing has quite captured the brilliance of my first time there so I'll be intrigued to see how you feel about it if you again. (I also wonder how it managed to lose a Michelin star along the way...) Count me in for the next visit though :)!